Broth, Risotto, and the Aftermath of the Holidays
Posted by Brian on Saturday, December 1st, 2007 in Chicken, Soups and Stews, TurkeyI love cooking for a Thanksgiving and Christmas (I’m not a big fan of the holidays otherwise). It’s an opportunity to strut your stuff in the kitchen and try new things. If you are fairly practiced or imaginative you can conceivably feed yourself for weeks from a single spread. One of the simplest ways of doing this is by making a good rich broth. I love any opportunity to cook a whole bird for this reason.
Chicken and turkey both have their limitations. Chicken will usually produce a versatile but somewhat bland broth. Unless it is thoroughly reduced you will likely need to use lots of vegetables, salt, and spices to produce a nice strong flavor. Turkey on the other hand has a gamier quality and will create a much more distinctive flavor, which can often be distracting from other flavors in soups and stews. This can also require a lots of vegetables and spices (but less salt) in order to temper the strong turkey flavor.
This year I had the opportunity to make a whole duck (that may be an entry onto itself at some point), and let me tell you, it makes wonderful broth. Duck is all dark meat, and dark meat is my favorite because that’s where the flavor is. Duck is richer that the flavor of dark meat chicken, but not as gamy as that of turkey, so it really is the best of both worlds. The added bonus is that duck meat has a subtle sweetness to it so you have amazing layers of flavor with it.
Making broth is a pretty straightforward thing, but there are a few tips that can yield improved result.
Only used enough water to cover the carcass. For a clear broth filter through a coffee filter to remove any particulate. Red onions will give broth a deeper color, etc.
Classic Risotto
1 small onion, diced
1 package (8oz to 10 oz) mushrooms
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp butter
ΒΌ cup + white wine or sherry
2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
5 to 6 cups of chicken or turkey broth
leftover bird meat
grated parmesan/romano, or crumbled gorgonzola
truffle oil (optional)
Heat oil and butter together on low until butter is melted. Add diced and sliced mushrooms (white are fine but portabella or porcini are better). Cook until onions are translucent and mushrooms are dark. Add rice, stir into the mixture until all the rice is shiny. Cook until rice begins to stick which should happen very quickly. Add wine/sherry. Keep extra on hand if you decide you want more. Add only enough broth to cover the rice, stir. Let it cook down, then add more broth. Repeat until rice is fully cooked. Add chicken allow to reach temperature. Litter the rice with parmesan, drizzle with truffle oil, and serve.
This is recipe that lends itself well to variation. Try with spinach instead of mushrooms, sundried tomatoes, chopped pine nuts, fresh basil, or fresh garlic when serving.



